LAOS - Paradise on the Earth

Heti rajan yli paastya nahtiin, etta laos on varma reissun suosikki. pikku kyla oli rauhallisin mita ikin oon nahny. tullimiehet pelaili jalkapalloa, vanha ukko poltteli piippua ja bussikuski torkkui tyhjassa bussissa odottamassa matkustajia.
Annettiin tullipomolle Vietnamin Lonely Planet josta ukko ilahtui kovasti. Bussi lahtikin sitten samana paivana mukanaan mina ja jukkis, eika ketaan muuta koko 175 kilometrin matkana. Luultavasti oltaisiin jouduttu yopymaan rajalla, jos oltaisiin toteutettu sunnitelma poltaa roviolla Lonely Planet Vietnam - matkaopaskirja, Joka mm. Puhui kahdesta eri rajan ylityspaikasta samana. Katsokaa aina moneen kertaan ennen kun meette mihinkaan LP:n neuvomaan paikkaan.
Seuraavana aamuna Xam Neuassa ostettiin "motskarit." Kiinalaiset 110-ccm mopot.

Kaytiin parina paivana alelemassa mopoja sisaan ja kokeilemassa kaikki viat, ja ennen matkaan lahtoa kaytiin viela korjauttaan kaikki puutteet ja kiristamassa loysat pultit.Kaytiin mm. Viang Xaissa katsomassa luolia

Matka kohti etelaa saattoi siis alkaa. Ensin kuljettiin lanteen yli vuorten ja laaksojen. Maisemat upeita ja uusia. Kylat ihmeteltavaa ja ihmettelijoita taynna.

Meista kehittyi toisena ajo paivana varsin hyvia renkaan vaihtajia, kun Jukkiksen ajoneuvosta puhkes kolme kertaa takarengas. Muilta vioilta valtyttiin. Surituspaineita kertyi, kun koko kylan lapset kokoontui ymparille ihmettelemaan

Eraassa kylassa saatiin kutsu paikallisiin haa juhliin. Koko kylan vaki oli kokoontunut juhlimaan ja jokaisesta poydasta tarjottiin Lao Laoa. Aamulla meille ei puhuttu kovin ystavalliseen savyyn, joten paatettiin otta hatkat. Mopot alle ja seuraavaan kylaan.

Matkan edistyessa joet leveni ja ilmat lampenivat. Ja myos vuoret madaltuivat, joten matkan teko vauhdittui. Joulu vietettiin kylassa nimelta Nong Khiaw. Seuraan loytyi kaksi erikseen matkaavaa Suomalais poikaa: Jukka Rovaniemelta ja Jaakko Hervannasta! Valkoista joulua ei ollut meillakaan. Ei ehka yhta kylma kun Suomessa, Mutta ei mekaan ilman takkia illalla parjatty. Talviturkki kaytiin tosin kastamassa. Joulumaa!!!

Nyt ollaan Luang Brabangissa Mekongin rannalla. Taalla ei pysty valokuvaamaan ku joka kuvaan osuu vahintaan yks turisti. Huomena jatketaan matkaa Vang Viengiin.

Thursday, 28 december, 2006

LAOS, paradise on earth

As soon as we got over the border, we knew right away that Laos will be the top favorite destination of the trip. The little village was thge most peaceful i’ve ever seen. Border control playing football, a single old-timer smoking his pipe and the bus driver snoozing off in his empty vehicle waiting for passengers.

We gave the customs chief the Lonely Planet Vietnam, which made the dude extra happy. So happened that the bus took off yet the same day carrying me and Jukkis and no one else for 175 kilometres. Probably would’we had to spend the night at the border, if we had carried out our plan to bonfire scorch our Lonely Planet Vietnam guide, which among other things mentioned two separate checkpoints as one. Always check and double-check before following LP anywhere.

Next morning in Xam Neua we purchased “motorcycles”. That is chinese 110 cc mopeds... Spent a couple of days running-in them and finding out what was wrong with them and before taking off had all the faults fixed and loose bolts screwed.

(caption: Were to Viang Xai to see the caves.)

The journey south could then begin. First we headed west cross the mountains and walleys. Landscapes were wonderful and all new, villages full of things for us to wonder and people to wonder us...

On second day of biking we developed certain skills in tire changing, when the back-tire of jukkis punctured three times. Other damages we managed to avoid.

(caption: All the villages children gathering to wonder us built up pressure to succeed.)

In one village we were invited to local wedding celebration. All the townsfolk were gathered to party and in each table they offered Lao Lao. In the morning they didn’t speak in a very friendly tone, so we decided to take off. On our bikes and off to the next village...

As the journey progressed the rivers got wider and the weather warmer. Also the mountains got flatter, so we were able to travel faster. We celebrated christmas in a village of Nong Khiaw. We got acquinted with two finnish guys travelling separately, Jukka from Rovaniemi and Jaakko from Hervanta! (Finland didn’t have) a white christmas had we neither. Probably not as cold as back home, but still needed a jacket at night. Went for a swim, though.

(caption: Land of christmas!)

Now we’re in Luang Brabang by Mekong. Cant take any photos here, because each shot would contain at least one tourist. Tomorrow we will head to Vang Vieng.

Rajan ylitysta!

Hanoissa viimesena iltana kaytiin viela moikkaamassa uutta ystavaamme pikkumies mr. Bhuta. Istuimme ilaa vakkari kadunkulma "ravintelissa" rautatiesillan alla ja porukkamme kasvoi kun paikalliset kutsuivat meidat poytaansa.Aamulla lahdettiin sompailemaan bussiasemalle ja Kohti Luoteis Vietnamia Son Laan ja Dien Bien Phuhun.Ensin sompailtiin mopotaksilla bussi asemalleSitten jalat halvaannuttavan pitka bussimatka Dien Bien Phuhun

Dien Bienista mentiin mopotakseilla Tay Trangiin ja yritettiin rajan yli. Yllattaen raja ei siltakohtaa ollut auki lankkareille, vaikka meille miin oli moneen kertaan luvattu. Siita sitten toinen tunti takas Dien Bieniin ja busilla 15 tuntia Pikkukylaan jonka nimea en enaa muista.Kyla jonka nimea en enaa muista

Kylasta jonka nimea en enaa muista mentiin VIIDEN TUNNIN mopotaksimatka Na Meon rajanylityspaikalle. Mopo taksi on ihan jees hanoin vilskeessa ja lyhyilla matkoilla. mutta rinkka selassa skootterin perassa viisi tuntia ei oo enaan hauskaa. kokemuksena tosin korvaamaton.

Rajan yli paastiinkin sitten ongelmitta. Vietnamin puolella rajamiehet tutki reput tosi ylimalkaisesti. Laosin puolella ei meinattu loytaa tullimiehia mistaan, kun kaikki oli pelaamassa jalkapalloa!!Laosilaista jalkapalloa. Sulkapallo verkko ja rottinkinen pallo.

Crossing borders!

On our last night in Hanoi, we took time to say hi to our new friend, Little man mr. Bhu. We were wining and dining in our usual street corner “bistro” and our little crew got bigger as the locals invited us to their table.

In the morning we teed off to bus station and there on towards northwest Vietnam to Son La and Dien Bien Phu.

(captions:)

First a moped taxi drive to bus station.

Then a leg-paralyzing long bus ride to Dien Bien Phu

From Dien Bien with moped taxis to Tay Trang and there we tried to cross the border, which surprisingly enough was not open to westerns there, though we had been promised access many times. So, it was another hour long trip back to Dien Bien and 15 more hours on a bus to a village, the name of which I don’t remember.

(caption: The village I can’t remember the name of.)

From the forgotten village we had to travel FIVE HOURS with moped cabs to a check point in Na Meo. Mopeds are quite fine on short distances and in the hustle of Hanoi. But... Five hours on the back of a scooter with one’s backpack on is just no more fun. As an experience, though – priceless.

The actual border we crossed without problems. On tha Vietnam side the border guards checked our packs really casually and on the Laos side we actually had hard time finding the border personnel, for they were off playing soccer!!

(caption: Lao football – A badminton net and a ball of ratan. )

Halong Bay

Kaytiin Halong Bayssa, kalkkikivi saaristossa. Maisemat oli aivan jarjettoman upeat ja ilma oli lammin. Catba Saarella vuokrattiin moottosipyorat ja ajeltiin saarea ympari, kaytannossa ajettiin jokaista tieta mita saarelta loyty. Cat Balla yovyttiin hotellissa jonka huoneen nakoala oli parempi kun ikina missaan oon yopyny! kahdenhengen huone makso paatahuimaavat kymmenen dollaria!
Cat balla vietettiin paripaivaa. Sielta otettiin laiva Hai Phongiin, jossa oltiin pari paivaa. Hai Phong oli kuin Hanoi pari vuosikymmenta sitten. Rauhallisempi, puhtaampi, eika nahty yhtaan turisteja!
Si tultiin takas Hanoihin jarkkaileen asioita. Parin yon jalkeen lahdettiin Kohti Laosin rajaa, Son Lan pikkukaupunkiin. Son La on vuoristojen ymparoima, n50 000 asukkaan kaupunki luoteis Vietnamissa. Maisemat oli todella upet. Saa oli lammin vaikka Hanoissa porukka kuumotteli etta taalla olis tosi kylma!

Wednesday, december 13, 2006

Halong Bay

We were to Halong bay, the limestone isles. The wiews were absolutely crazy wonderful and the weather was warm. On the island Cat Ba we rented motorcycles and biked around the island, practically wandering through every road we could find. In Cat Ba we spent the night in a hotel room which had better wiews I’ve seen anywhere ever! A double room cost us a mind-boggling ten dollars!

Spent a couple of days on Cat Ba... From there we took a boat to Hai Phong, where we also spent two days. Hai Phong was like Hanoi probably was two decades ago. More peaceful, cleaner and we saw no tourists!

Then we came back to Hanoi to check things out. After a couple of nights we took towards Laos border, to the town of Son La. Son La is a 50 000 people town surrounded by mountain ranges in northwest Vietnam. Again the wiews were absolutely fabulous. The weather was warm altough in Hanoi the folks were scaring us with it being really cold in here!

(Translator note: In Finland the media is hyping about the warmest weather ever at this time of the year with temperatures of 0 - -1 centigrade...)

I’ll post some photos later, because the computers here are just too slow.

Hanoi Rocks!

Yota myoten Hanoihin johon Jukkis oli saapunut edellis iltana. Hanoi on mahtava. Liikenne on aivan unelma!! 99,9% ajoneuvoista on mopoja ja fillareita eika mitaan jarjestysta ole! Liikenne soljuu korvia huumaavan torvisoiton saestamana kuin unelma! Kadunylitys on hauskaa ja adrenaliini riittoista! Senkun vaan kavelee kadulle hitaasti ja toivoo etta lahestyvat mopot tajuaa vaistaa. Tunkusemmissa paikoissa tehdaan Rikun ja Tunnan ohjeen mukaan ja valitaan joku katua ylittava paikallinen ja seurataan tiukasti peesissa. Tassa tavassa on huomioitava se, etta paikallisen liikkeisiin on reagoitava todella nopeasti!

Talla todellakin kaikki kulkee kahdella pyoralla!

Emantaa sovitetaan riisisakin kannakkeeksi!!

Ukot kalassa sontasimmassa lammessa, mita ikina oon nahny!! Hanoissa en aio syoda kalaa!!

Huomena vuokrataan parrat ja ajetaan rannikolle!

P.S. Kiitos Leenan Villelle englanniksoksesta!! Ja hyvia merimaileja!! Ja Harrille kans ja onnea ja jaksoa opiskeluun!

Tuesday, december 5, 2006

By the night I came to Hanoi, where Jukkis had arrived last night. The city is great. Traffic is like a dream! 99.9% of all the vehicles are mopeds or bicycles and there is absolutely no order! The traffic is ebbing like a dream backed by ear-numbing honking of horns! Crossing the street is plain fun and quite an adrenaline rush! You just walk the street slowly and hope the mopeds will dodge you. In the more crowded places we follow Riku’s and Tunna’s guidance and pick a local crossing the street and follow his lead tight. What has to be noticed in this way, though, is that you must follow his actions really fast!

(captions:)

Here everything actually is moved on two wheels!

Fitting in the good old lady for a rice-bag-carriage!

Blokes fishing in the shittiest puddle of water I’ve ever seen!! Not going to eat fish in Hanoi...

Tomorrow we’re going to hire motorcycles and travel to coast!

P.S. Thanks to Leena’s Ville for the translation and have nice nautical miles!! (the translator bows humbly in gratitude) And for Harri also and good luck and strength with your studies!

GUILIN - Onnellisten ihmisten maa!

Shanghai - Guilin junassa sain tietaa ettei ari tuukkan Hanoihin vaan menee BURMAAN!!
Nyt oon Guilinissa ja yllattaen hostellin lobbyssa tuli suomalainen Jukkis jutteleen et ollaan samasta maasta kuuli mun kertovan sveitsilaiselle etta oot Tampereelta) ja menossa samoihin paikkoihin. joten mennaan ainaki Vietnamiin ja Laosiin motskaroimaan!

Guilinissa vuokrattiin Jukkiksen kanssa fillarit ja lahdettiin pyoraileen kaupungin ulkopuolelle

Joella ukot oli kalastelemassa ja lillui traktorin sisarenkaalla tuntikausia paikoillaan. Huom. maisemat!!

Loydettiin kyla johon johti ainoastaan joen ylittava pari metria levea silta! Eli kylaan ei paassyt autoilla.

Pysahdyttiin kylassa ruokailemaan. Tilattiin parilla eurolla hotpotti johon ukko otti sumpusta ja paistoi tuoreen monnin. lisukkeena oli uppopaistettua tofua! Annos oli niin iso, etta puolivalissa meinas usko loppua. Kauheasti kuitenkaan ei pataan jaanyt. Muutama pala siis liikeni kylakoirille.

Kylapuusepan verstas Kiinan malliin!

Illalla kaytiin suomalaiseen perinteeseen kuuluen Jukkiksen kanssa puistossa pussibissella.

Seuraavana aamuna lahdettiin bussilla paivaseltaan kaymaan Yangshoussa.

Jalleen vuokrattiin pyorat ja kierreltiin ympariinsa. Kalkkikivivuoret oli vaikuttavia taallakin!

Saturday, december 2, 2006

Guilin – land of the happy!

On the Shanghai-Guilin train I learned that Ari is not on his way to Hanoi, but to BURMA! Now I’m in Guilin and all of a sudden in the hostel lobby a finn, Jukkis, came to chat with me about us being from the same country after hearing me tell a certain swiss that I’m from Tampere and on my way to same destinations. So at least we’re now going to motorcycle in Vietnam and Laos!

In Guilin me and Jukkis rented bicycles and went biking outside of town.

(captions:)

Old folks were fishing on the river and floated there still on a tractor tyre tubes for hours. Check the wiew!

Found a village with a two meter wide bridge being its only connection to the outside world! So one couldn’t drive there...

We stopped to dine in the village. ordered a two-euro hotpot for which the oldtimer cooking caught from the net and fried a fresh catfish. The dish came with deep fried tofu! The serving was so huge we almost run out of faith in the halfway. But still there weren’t too much leftovers. A few munchies for the village dogs anyway.

(caption:) The village carpenter’s workshop the Chinese way!

In the evening, following the finnish tradition, me and jukkis went to the park for some beer-from-a-bag.

The next morning we took a bus for a day trip in Yangshou. Again we rented bikes and wandered around. The limestone mountains were impresive here as well!